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Tie up and climb! This dock leads to the Warderwick Wells, Exuma Land and Sea Park office.

Highbourne Cay To Warderick Wells

FROM: The Captain –

Conditions: Mostly cloudy.  Winds from the north/northeast 10 mph. 2 foot following sea.

Distance traveled:  31.4 nautical miles

Time underway: 3 hours 20 minutes

Average Speed: 10 knots

Max Speed: 15 knots

After saying our goodbyes to the incredible Highbourne staff (thanks again Shannie and Carolyn) and getting a line-assist from the Dusty Sea crew we were off the docks for our 3 hour run to Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  With the wind blowing from the north/northeast at around 10 mph we had about a two foot following sea pushing us along.  We had envisioned lots of calm passages between the islands as we continued along our way but with the winds consistently blowing we are finding our travel to more frequently be in swells so we’re glad the distances are getting shorter.

OLOH is proud to be “stuck” at Highbourne Cay Marina in close proximity to Relemar.
We’ve gotten a lot of destination suggestions from a lot of people and Warderick Wells has been one of the most commonly mentioned.  There are a few dozen mooring balls in two fields, the north mooring field and the Emerald Rock field, that can accommodate vessels of all sizes.  While you can certainly simply hail the park upon your approach in hopes that they will have a ball available for you, the procedure for getting on their list is to hail them on VHF 09 the day before your intended arrival.  Then at 9am each morning they are on channel 9 confirming departures, assigning balls to those who have made requests as well as taking requests for the following day.  Because we were out of radio range the prior day, Carolyn in the office at Highbourne Cay Marina was able to message the park warden for us to make our request.  Another thing to do if you are out of range is to ask by radio that someone closer relay your mooring request.  We heard this happen several times and happily relayed for people when we were able to.  We had been told by everyone to request the north mooring field which only has a few balls that can accommodate a vessel our size.  Once we were within radio range as we made our way down we hailed the park and learned that there wasn’t a spot available for us on the north side but that we could have any ball of our choosing at Emerald Rock.  We were prepared for that possibility and had plotted routes into each location as they’re reached from different approaches.  Nicola and Cheri who manage all of the VHF communications are incredibly lovely, patient and comprehensive with their instructions.
Jasper on the lookout for the perfect mooring in the Emerald Rock field. The closer to the beach the better!

With only a few other boats in the Emerald Rock field, we essentially had our pick of mooring balls.  The proper procedure to moor here is to run two separate lines through the loop on the mooring and tie them back to your bow cleats.  This evenly distributes the tension on the lines allowing your boat to remain more settled and in the event one line should break you do not come loose from the mooring.  The moorings are well-maintained and although there are no pennants with which to pick them up you should have no problem using a boat hook.

Our first order of business once we are secure is getting Jasper to the beach. On our way back he spots a stingray.
One of the beaches by the Emerald Rock mooring field (OLOH in the background).
The Emerald Rock field is most certainly in a beautiful area with a couple of sandy beaches just a short dinghy ride away.  But when we took the dinghy over to the north field to check in at the park office and walk Jasper we saw what all of the fuss was about.  It’s a horseshoe-shaped mooring field surrounded by beaches, coral, sandbars, low-lying bluffs and incredibly beautiful water of many colors.  With a plan to be here for four nights we put in a request to move the boat over.  One helpful note if you plan to come here – at the time of this posting the latest Navionics chart actually shows the numbers of the moorings in the north field, making it easier to visualize where you will be.
The office sits atop a hill overlooking the water.
OLOH (center) and C-Shel (right) sit just beyond one of the several sandbars that appear at low-tide.
A.J. with the lovely Nicola, who treated us like family.
Even on a small island away from civilization you need a place to get your mail.

When we were in Highbourne we ran into a very nice couple who was also next to us in Nassau.  They run Volaré, an Absolute 58 that’s part of a yacht share program and were heading in the same direction as us with their next stop also being Warderick Wells.  After we checked in at Warderick they came by OLOH on their dinghy to say hello and we invited them over for cocktail hour where we had a terrific time getting to know each other.  After they departed the next day we got clearance from the park office to make our way to the north mooring field to take their mooring.  Although the fields are actually very close “as the crow flies” it is about a seven-mile route from where we were to where we were going.

There was an unusual amount of activity in the park on this particular day as there was a Poker Run with about fifty boats hopping from island to island throughout the day, picking up playing cards and hoping to win a big prize.  They were supposed to have cleared out of the park by the time we were pulling in to the north mooring field with its very narrow channel that can be a bit tricky to navigate.  Just after we entered the field we were hailed by Nicola in the office who told us that the poker run boats were blocking a part of the channel we needed to pass through to get to our mooring and that we needed to turn around and take a mooring just outside of the entrance until the boats left.  Terrific.  It was blowing at around 15 mph and there’s not a whole lot of room to maneuver (be sure to see the video below).  But we successfully spun around and our soon-to-be neighbors on the Tollycraft C-Shel who were caught in the same situation just behind us were kind enough stand-off so we could pass by in the narrow space.
These were the kinder of the parading poker run boats, waiting until they got just past us before they hammered-down.
Once we were secure to ball #3 just outside of the main field the zoo-like parade of poker run boats began.  They were mostly go-fast and center-console boats in the 25 to 45-foot range and, for the most part, not at all concerned about boating safety or etiquette.  Just as they were approaching us many of them would hammer down to wide open throttle and take off.  When a boat does this it digs a big hole in the water, usually sending out a very large wake.  So we sat on our bow with Jasper as boat after boat blew by us and rocked the heck out of OLOH.  Even the park warden, who tried to strategically position his small boat between us and them to try to keep things under control was largely ignored and also got tossed.  But we were very appreciative of the effort – thanks Brent!
The chaos ended as quickly as it began and we were off our temporary mooring on our way to #19, our home for the next three nights. While the winds never let up and the overall weather was generally imperfect, we made the most of our time here, largely disconnected from the world as there is no cell service available and the pay-per-day internet which you can pick up if you have a good wifi repeater was just good enough for an occasional email or check of the weather.  But be prepared to be off the grid and largely out of touch if you come here.  It is actually quite freeing but there is a practicality to being connected, particularly for up-to-date weather info when you are boating.  We will add satellite weather to our electronics suite before returning.
The view from up top. Right behind us is a wonderful sand-bar that became our playground.
We keep the tender tied behind the boat and go to shore to walk Jasper at least four times a day. In the distance when the tide goes down there’s a great beach. Note the hood ornament (bird) who thought he’d found a place to rest until Jasper saw him!
We set up our chairs on the sandbar and the day drifted by like the light fluffy clouds above.
A.J. got Jasper to walk to another sandbar beyond where we were sitting. For perspective, in the distance is a 160ft yacht that’s on a mooring ball!
OLOH sits pretty to the right of Jasper and C-Shel sits to the left.
Tim sports his organic sand-als! The sand here is very fine and soft.

Here we three while away the day in a place called paradise. Thanks C-Shel for capturing the three of us together!
The stunning “Powerful Beach” by the north mooring field as seen from the deck of the park office.
One of the large Eagle Rays that hung out around OLOH. We named him Donovan.
On Powerful Beach there is a skeleton of a 52ft Sperm Whale that beached there in 1995.
Saturday night pot-luck happy hour is a cruiser’s tradition at the park. It’s a great way to meet your mooring field neighbors.  As usual, Tim’s contribution (fresh Bahama Bread with extra virgin olive oil, truffle oil, and smoked salt) was the big hit of the evening.
One family at the gathering had three lovely kids who have been on an adventure of a lifetime of their own on their catamaran Hindsight. The youngest of the three was content to create a little beach house on the sand, complete with a spider web tree swing! It was terrific. They have a great blog definitely worth checking out.
There are several trails on the island and on our last full day, we decided to hike a bit even though it was spitting rain. The topography is fascinating. This is a salt marsh that they call a mangrove nursery because it has perfect conditions for young mangroves to sprout.
We reach the signs and just beyond lies the ocean.
A good part of the trail is rocky and some jagged so it’s best to wear shoes. In the distance, the roof of the office can be seen.

Tim high atop Boo Boo Hill where we made our offering to Neptune. Watch the video below to see what the heck that means…
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The view looking South from the top of Boo Boo Hill. Even with the gray skies, it’s a terrific view.
A.J. looks out toward the North Sound where OLOH can barely be seen.
On our last evening, we had made plans to have our neighbors on C-Shel over for happy hour.  Unfortunately, just around the time we were looking to get together the skies again opened up.  Even though there was a fairly short distance between our boats, nobody wants to get unnecessarily soaked and we all ended up deciding to forgo our plans (the VHF becomes your telephone in the Bahamas and many cruisers monitor or switch to channel 68 after hailing on 16 to stay in touch).  These two are really living the dream (check out their terrific blog) and we have a good feeling that our cancelled happy hour will turn into just a postponement.  Cheers C-Shel!
While all of this was happening we heard our Highbourne friends from Salt Wind communicating with the office.  Because of their size, there were no balls available to them in the field so they took one just outside next to where we waited out the poker run madness.  They were on their way to Compass Cay the next day, our next destination, and we unsuccessfully tried to reach them on the radio.  About an hour and a half later after the rain had stopped we heard some commotion outside of our boat and it was the Salt Wind crew on their center console boat.  They rafted alongside OLOH and hopped on board for an impromptu cocktail hour where we made plans to travel together the next morning.

Next stop – Compass Cay.  See you out there!

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This Post Has 5 Comments

  1. This was a spectacular post! You three are certainly living the good life????⚓️⚓️ Hiya is smiling from above!
  2. Talk about off the grid! Really enjoyed this update and looking forward to your continued adventures. The picture of the three of you is simply the best!

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