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Northbound ’19 – Travel Day 17: Beaufort, NC to Belhaven, NC

Conditions: Overcast, cooler to start. Sunny & hot to finish.  Winds SW 5 mph, ICW calm, light chop in some rivers.

Distance traveled: 73 statute miles

Time underway: 6 hours 50 minutes

Average Speed: 9.3 kts

Max Speed: 12 kts

Fuel used: 72 gallons

It was surprisingly windy and a bit cool when we shoved off from the Beaufort docks at 7:40 am thanks to the nearby ocean breezes but as we wound our way out of the industrial port of Beaufort/Moorhead City and worked our way back into the narrows of the ICW to the north things calmed down and the day began to warm.

Miles and miles of calm washed over us as the day warmed and the water found no reason to be angry.

As we pulled into Adam’s Creek we got a wonderful show…

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It’s tough to capture the personality of the small towns and establishments that line the waterway but the time-beaten docks and fishings boats all tell a wonderful story.
R.E. Mayo Seafood was open and if we’d had the time and refrigerator space, we’d have pulled up and stocked up.
So these two guys were hanging out under the bridge…

While we had to make passing arrangements with a few fellow travelers, the further north we get the more we become aware that we are at the early end of the northern migration and boat traffic is much lighter than what it will likely be in a few weeks.

If you think Jasper doesn’t know you didn’t hail us to make passing arrangements…oh, he knows and he’s watching!

There are a few big bodies of water you cross in this leg including the Pungo and Neuse Rivers.  We were very happy to cross them all with light winds as they can get quite sporty.  The most we saw was a light chop but it was mostly this…

Dead calm on the Pungo River.

Once we were on the Neuse the sun really began to warm the day and gave us our first truly hot weather in a while.We pulled in past the Belhaven breakwater and into Belhaven Marina at 2:30pm.  It quickly became one of our favorite new stops.

Belhaven Marina approach.

The last time we stopped in Belhaven we had a terrific stay at the nearby River Forest Marina, but in an effort to try something new, we opted for this spot which is right in town and has a wonderful charm about it.  Gregg, the General Manager and Harbor Master could not have been more accommodating.  If they have space for you, give them a shot.  We think you’ll be pleased.

Tim and I both commented on how rare and wonderful it is to be able to step off your boat onto beautiful, green grass.  Jasper was also quite pleased, of course.  The marina has fixed docks (no tidal swing here) in excellent condition with fenders already deployed.  At the time of this writing, they have a planned expansion including more dock space, fuel and pump out.

Happy Dog! Jasper was thrilled to have a yard full of soft, beautiful, green grass right outside the boat.
This property may be small but it’s mighty, mighty nice! The views from up top are terrific and the walk to town is barely three minutes.
In case you need to get your bearings…
They are doing a great job making sure this place has plenty of charm and personality – keep up the good work!

There are a few excellent food choices (actually most of the choices in Belhaven are good!).  We were looking for something casual, with great food and an easy vibe so we decided to check out The Tavern at Jack’s Neck.  From the outside, their sign with a mermaid next to a compass rose hints at what’s to come. The building, with its stone facade and wood and tin awnings, takes up half the block.  It looks like a tavern is supposed to look!  Inside that place opens up to incredible wood ceilings and rustic brick walls and a nautical theme that is done just right.  As we like to say, it’s the kind of design you step into, not around!

We were greeted by the lovely Bridget, who welcomed us warmly and seated us at a great table by the window.

The hostest with the mostest. OK, that may be trite, but thank you, Bridget, for welcoming us and giving us the grand tour.
This was not our table, but a great area to gather with friends. Our table was in the same kind of space by another set of windows.

Our server, Ashley, showed up quickly and couldn’t have had more southern charm.  Her friendly banter and food advice were just what we were looking for and we quickly landed on some simple, but exciting (to us) items.  They have an excellent menu with a very nice variety of choices, many of which we were tempted to try, but we had a long day of travel and were really craving some comfort food.

The Chicken Tenders are described as “like eating fried chicken without the bone” and that’s all it took for the Admiral to start salivating! These were hands-down the best chicken tenders we’ve had on the entire journey!
The Captain was craving one of Jack’s Specialty Pizzas, so he chose the Tavern BBQ (minus the bacon). Again, it was one of the best pies we’ve had on our journey!
This beautifully presented and delicious Greek Salad was not ordered by the Captain – sorry to all who were already thinking before reading this that A.J. was adding something healthy to his meal. This time it was the Admiral. See, he can make healthy choices, too!

After we finished enjoying our meal, Bridget popped by to see how we were doing and the Captain was in a rare mood to chat (note: sarcasm) so he began asking her questions about the establishment.  She told us the great story about how the place came to be. 

The Tavern at Jack’s Neck couldn’t have a better spokesperson in Bridget.  Once she realized we were interested in the history of the restaurant, she asked if we’d like a tour.  We had no idea how big the place was.  Just past the main dining space is another inviting room with a piano and the stern of a boat mounted against the wall.   In another area, there is an impressive bar.  Beyond that is a new space they are developing that will host a prime cuts steak house.  There’s another space for an oyster and bourbon bar!  Which we will definitely be coming back for.  These spaces are truly works of art.  The attention to detail in the stonework, the stunning woodwork and craftsmanship make each space visually exciting, warm and very welcoming.  We felt all this even though the spaces weren’t even finished yet.  We are excited to go back and see how their vision has come to life.  We can’t thank Bridget enough (or the owners of The Tavern) for taking such great care of us and giving us another wonderful experience in Belhaven that we’ll never forget!  The folks in this town know how to do things right.  Thanks, Bridget, you are the best!

We strolled back to our bucolic spot in the warm night air, once again reveling in what a wonderful place Belhaven and the folks that reside here are. This small town with its big charm doesn’t disappoint.

Tomorrow we press on to the iconic stop of Coinjock.  See you out there!

 

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And that concludes your OLOH instructions. M/Y OLOH back to 1-6.

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