Conditions: Sunny and clouds. Windy. Winds SSE 10 – 15 mph, ICW calm to choppy.
Distance traveled: 68 statute miles
Time underway: 6 hours 40 minutes
Average Speed: 9 kts
Max Speed: 14 kts
Fuel used: 60 gallons
We got up early for a planned pre-sunrise departure so we could catch a favorable tide at the known problem areas between Beaufort and Charleston [Cruisers Note: Specifically, Ashepoo, Fenwick and Watts Cuts]. We’ve mentioned these problem areas a lot and they are a real concern for cruisers in the ICW. We certainly would be capable of transiting some of these spots at a lower or even dead low tide but it’s simply not worth the added stress and we’re not in a rush – this is pleasure boating. And it was a great day on the water.
First things first. Jasper gets his walk, then makes sure everything is as it is supposed to be… and what that is can be anyone’s guess!We were lucky to be joined for the ride by Captain Michele… how many captains can you squeeze into a helm chair?!The OLOH crew was up and at ’em as the sun began to rise. It’s not always easy to get up before the sun does, but it really can be a wonderful, peaceful thing.Sunrise over Lady’s Island Bridge in Beaufort, SC, mile 546 of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.
This leg was not unlike the others with lots of time surrounded by nature. For whatever reason, the SiriusXM channel “Bluegrass Junction” felt like the perfect soundtrack as we made our way through Lowcountry.
Stir it up, little darlin’… and OLOH was stirring up some breakfast for these screamers who joined us for quite some time.Ahoy Avalon! Miss Michele waves to “her people”. The folks on board were also guests at Port Royal Landing Marina where we stayed and where Michele runs the show. It’s a small world on the water.We gave this beautiful sailing vessel – named Artemis – a nice, slow pass which was very much appreciated. It’s always important to respect all boaters on the water – we are all in this together! 🙂It was nice to pass by Storyteller and have a VHF catch-up with their Crew while underway. We shared a dock at Stock Island Marina for a bit over the winter. They were also staying at our destination marina and we had a very nice get-together with them while waiting out the weather.To the left is the cut you take to get to Charleston City Marina. We continued past that to St. Johns Yacht Harbor which was just around the bend on the Stono River. [Cruiser’s Note: pay attention at this point if you’ve been following other boats. When we made this turn off the ICW we noticed the boat behind us stayed with us so we naturally assumed they were also intending to go down the Stono. Without making arrangements they hurried past us as we slowed down to approach the marina. Then they abruptly did a U-turn through some pretty shallow water when they apparently realized they were going the wrong way]We decided to change things up this year for our Charleston stop. We typically stop at Charleston City Marina’s Mega-Dock but we really needed a utility stopover more than a marina in the city. So we chose St. Johns Yacht Harbor just to the west of Charleston proper.
It’s a big but quiet marina with nice floating docks and a terrific, friendly staff. Despite the significant current and wind on our arrival, docking on one of their T-heads was a non-event. The downside of the decision to stay right here is we have to ride out some pretty serious weather that’s passing through and because where we’re tied up is right on the Stono River, the effects of the south wind and strong current make for a pretty rough ride when we’re just sitting still.
You can’t run and you can’t hide. This massive cell was going to get us and everybody for thousands of miles. Also adding to the excitement were the tornado warnings in our area.
As the big part of the storm was a knockin’ OLOH was a rockin’. And Jasper was a nappin’.Jasper’s favorite crew member was also napping. The best part of this picture is that Sean is reading a book called…”To Shake the Sleeping Self.”Passover, OLOH style. The first night of Passover landed on our day off for the storm so Tim was in the galley throughout the day preparing a wonderful meal. Once the storm cell passed over (sorry), we had a terrific seder on the aft deck.
After a relatively short, intense storm burst, the calm quickly came and we got through it all just fine. The day after the storm brought some more significant winds so we decided to stay put. St Johns Yacht Harbor offers a loaner car which we decided to take advantage of to go out for lunch and do some exploring nearby. Before we owned OLOH we were in this same area to survey another boat that we didn’t end up buying. But we did find a terrific place to eat called the Angel Oak Restaurant. It’s a gem of a spot with wonderful farm to table eats and Nicole, one half of the couple who own the restaurant, was born and raised not far from our land home in the Hudson Valley in New York. So we went back for a terrific meal and highly recommend a stop there if you’re ever anywhere nearby.
Fried green tomato with pimento cheese and bacon (we had one without bacon as well). Who doesn’t love a fried green ‘mater!?Shrimp buns and parmesan truffle fries. Our favorite thing on the menu.
The restaurant is named for the iconic Angel Oak tree which is also located on St Johns Island and Sean suggested that a visit to the tree was in order.
The tree is quite something to behold in person (for scale, that’s Sean standing at its base). It’s estimated to be 400-500 years old, standing at 66.5 ft tall. The circumference is 28 ft and it produces shade that covers 17,200 square feet. Its longest branch distance is 187 ft long.The poles help support one of the long, heavy branches on this incredible beast.Do not hang on the tree. Do not climb the tree. Do not push or pull on the limbs. However, you are encouraged to kiss the tree and give it gentle hugs…we’re not kidding! And I’d bet that’s part of the secret to a long life! Sean didn’t hesitate to…plant…one on her!
Off to Georgetown next as we pass the halfway mark in our travel days north.
OLOH sits with her bow poking out in the distance. Jasper knows it’s almost time to cast the lines.
See you out there…
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And that concludes your OLOH instructions. M/Y OLOH back to 1-6.
Conditions: Sunny and clouds. Windy. Winds SSE 10 – 15 mph, ICW calm to choppy.
It’s a big but quiet marina with nice floating docks and a terrific, friendly staff. Despite the significant current and wind on our arrival, docking on one of their T-heads was a non-event. The downside of the decision to stay right here is we have to ride out some pretty serious weather that’s passing through and because where we’re tied up is right on the Stono River, the effects of the south wind and strong current make for a pretty rough ride when we’re just sitting still.
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